"TheJWT" (thejwt)
06/18/2014 at 22:02 • Filed to: None
1
14|
"TheJWT" (thejwt)
06/18/2014 at 22:02 • Filed to: None | 1
| 14 |
Lucky me, my car has wasted no time in attempting to teach me how to do my own repairs. When I shift into neutral to slow down for a red light or stop sign, the revs fluctuate between 2000 and 1000 for a few seconds, then level off anywhere between 700-1500. Sometimes when I'm stopped in neutral, however, the revs will slowly decrease until the engine stalls. It doesn't seem to make any difference whether the engine is cold; it seems to happen randomly. I think it may have something to do with the timing, but it could also be the fuel injectors, throttle body, spark plugs, or something else entirely. Does anyone know what could cause this and how to fix it?
V8 Rustler
> TheJWT
06/18/2014 at 22:04 |
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This happened with my old mustang. Does your car (240sx?) have an IAC valve? If so, clean that.
Alex from Toronto
> TheJWT
06/18/2014 at 22:06 |
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Clutch is sticking? It's the only thing I could think of.
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TheJWT
> V8 Rustler
06/18/2014 at 22:07 |
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It's a Sentra SE-R with an SR20DE. (Unfortunately not the one in the picture) It does have an IAC valve, I'll check that out. Thanks!
KatzManDu
> TheJWT
06/18/2014 at 22:08 |
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Ditto most everything else; is it throwing a CEL at all? Go to AutoZone and have them pull codes. Otherwise you can guess different parts. The cheapest and most effective thing at this point would be to find the Idle Air Control or Idle Air Control Valve or Idle Control Valve (different manufacturers call it different things) and clean it. Same with the MAF. Check the air filter, too. If it's a more serious MAF problem or vacuum leak, you'll likely get a CEL and an ODB code to help you along the way.
DipodomysDeserti
> TheJWT
06/18/2014 at 22:08 |
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It sounds like a vacuum leak. Check all hoses and listen for hissing sounds.
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TheJWT
> KatzManDu
06/18/2014 at 22:12 |
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There's no check engine light, and it's a 1993 Sentra so there's no OBDII. The general consensus seems to be IAC or MAF, which seems likely. I've been meaning to clean the air filter, too, it's pretty dirty.
Drakkon- Most Glorious and Upright Person of Genius
> TheJWT
06/18/2014 at 22:40 |
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Not to throw a clock wrench in the monkey works, I think talk about MAF and wrong air flow readings is correct.
THAT being said, my old 96 Subaru would do this with a bad cam position sensor. Check the other stuff first, but if it's not those, this is somewhere down the list.
190e30-Now with COSWORTH
> TheJWT
06/19/2014 at 08:12 |
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No way! I love those things. Will it be coming to the next C&C?
briannutter1
> TheJWT
06/19/2014 at 09:43 |
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Do you have a lightweight flywheel and electronic throttlebody?
JEM
> TheJWT
06/19/2014 at 10:26 |
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Something similar happens on my Jeep occasionally and it seems to be just the throttle cable sticking a little bit. A lit spray lube on it and it's fine.
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TheJWT
> 190e30-Now with COSWORTH
06/19/2014 at 13:39 |
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Unfortunately, probably not:( It's way too expensive to insure it at school in Brooklyn, so I'll probably have to leave it at home.
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TheJWT
> briannutter1
06/19/2014 at 13:39 |
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Lightweight flywheel, but cable operated throttle
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briannutter1
> TheJWT
06/19/2014 at 13:54 |
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With some vehicles, a lightweight flywheel revs up and down quicker than normal and the ecu and/or iac lag. This causes an idle flare that sometimes gets so bad it just stalls out. Your tuner can fix some of this with idle ignition timing sometimes. I ended up going from a 25lb clutch flywheel back to a 45lb clutch flywheel even after 3 of the countries best calibrators worked on my tune. Large diameter electronic throttlebodies make the problem worse.
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TheJWT
> briannutter1
06/19/2014 at 13:56 |
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That could very well be it, thanks!